1998 Château Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan

Serena Sutcliffe, MW: Tasted at a great Imperial dinner in Hong Kong in 2011. Such an extraordinary spice bazaar bouquet – it reminds me of a stroll through the Cairo market! Then a touch of sweet mint and basil. So soft and velvety, with a glorious ‘inky’ finish. Tobacco and mineral, meaty and huge. An impressive vintage here and a totally winning wine. From bottle in 2013, full of character and absolutely stupendous. An explosion of fruit and sheer Havana depth. Huge tannic structure too. 02/13

Representative blend: 45% Merlot, 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. The second wine is Clarence de Haut Brion (previously Bahans Haut Brion).

Haut Brion is sited across the road from its sister property, La Mission Haut Brion. Both are within the southern suburbs of the city of Bordeaux, and surrounded by development on all sides. It is in part this very specific (and quite warm) microclimate which gives Haut Brion its unique taste - Havana tobacco, earth and spice. It can also be the most velvety and seductive of all the first growths, and to some extent remains underappreciated for its myriad subtleties and beauties.

Haut Brion has been owned by the American Clarence Dillon family since the 1930s.