Walden Pemantle | January 15, 2025
Comando G is Daniel Landi's high-altitude love song to the elegant side of Grenache. Landi’s wines embody the rediscovery of Spain’s old vines. Tucked into the mountains around Madrid, these formerly abandoned vineyards produce wines on par with any of the world’s great Grenache. Focusing on finesse over power, Landi’s wines draw you in with perfume. They are the rare winery that can bring a Châteauneuf-du-Pape drinker and a Burgundy collector to the same table.
Comando G makes three tiers of wine, modeled after the hierarchy in Burgundy. La Bruja de Rozas is akin to a village wine, ready to drink, and already offering fresh raspberry, smoke and garrigue. Navatalgordo & Rozas are Landi's premier cru- Rozas is a blend across six sites while Navatalgordo hails from a 60-year-old vineyard at 1,100 meters in altitude. Both wines communicate the same depth as the grand crus, at a more accessible price point.
Finally, the trio of grand cru sites: Las Iruelas tends to be the broadest and most muscular expression, while El Tamboril contains Landi's oldest vines at the highest altitude, giving wines of concentration and finesse that rarely reach above 12.5% abv. The Tumba Rey Moro vineyard resembles a landslide of bush vines and shrubs across sparse pink granite. This is the wine that most often garners comparison to the ethereal delight of Château Rayas. After the 2021 earned multiple 100 & 99-point scores from critics, it has become Comando G's most iconic wine.
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