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Selosse: A Master Champagne Producer

An Original Artisan 

The wines of Anselme Selosse are discussed at completely disproportionate length compared to their availability. Such is the reputation of this master winemaker that he has been the subject of a thousand articles and late night conversations. But few of us ever encounter his wines with regularity. For those not fortunate to taste on a regular basis, what is all the fuss about?

Selosse was, perhaps, the first real artisan Champagne producer. That is, as far back as the mid ‘70s, he did not care about making a commercial, familiar style. He became obsessed with the long aging white wines of Spain: sherry and white Rioja. In these he noted that fruit is secondary to texture and mineral content.

He ferments and ages his base wines in barrel, and the effect is not so much to give an oaky taste to the wines, as to give a tangy, salty flavour component, which may result from the at least partial growth of flor yeast in the barrels, which are not always fully topped up.

As the name suggests, start with the Originale for a classic rendition of the Selosse Blanc de Blancs style. Exquise, meanwhile, has a little residual sugar, and is full bodied and flamboyant. Sous Le Mont is a rare, brilliant, single vineyard Pinot Noir.