Ao Yun

Nicholas Jackson, MW | July 27, 2019

A Brilliant Chinese Wine

When Moët-Hennessy decided to make a world class Chinese wine, they could have followed everyone else to the well-trodden vineyard regions in the east of the country. Instead, they chose to make a wine in an otherwise unknown region for wine, in the south west.   

Northern Yunnan province is in the foothills of the Himalayas, and the vineyards are planted at around 8000 feet. Perhaps it’s this that gives the sense of luminosity to Ao Yun: the fruit just shines with health and life.
The predominant variety in Ao Yun is Cabernet Sauvignon, in a sleek, thoroughbred mould - a little like Bordeaux but slightly higher toned; and I love the small proportion of Cabernet Franc which gives a delightful spice on the nose. Try and be surprised: Ao Yun will upturn your expectations of Chinese wine.